Samantha’s Consommé

Some of you may know that I have been in catering pretty much for my entire career. I started as a hostess at a fine dining restaurant in Westlake Village, California, called the Westlake Village Inn. I learned the in’s and out’s of every position there, from front desk to housekeeping. The general manager is another leader whom I hope I will make proud. I even had the privilege of working for her for a week and saw what it takes to be a strong woman dealing with running a business, but also being kind and giving, as someone in hospitality ought.

Westlake Village Inn gave me the background of what I do today. As I climbed the proverbial ladder there, I made every moment count. My first employee review became my proudest moment; there is nothing more amazing than feeling your self-worth. When I finally made it to the catering side of the hotel, I knew that this is what I was destined to do for the rest of my life. Planning weddings became my obsession. That environment inspired me and gave me happiness.

Today I would like to discuss a different aspect of food, and that is the planning. I never realized what went into it all until I went to culinary school. The chopping, dicing, and prepping. The labor, the hours, and the organization. But I knew in my heart it was all worth every backbreaking moment. This recipe brings me back to my time when I learned my passion for not only food, but my passion for planning weddings. I guess I am nostalgic at heart.

This dish is time-consuming, but worth the trouble. My clients love it, and it should be saved for a special evening.

Samantha’s Consommé

For consommé:

• 5 to 5 1/2 lbs of salmon carcasses (heads, bones, and tails)
• 4 large leeks (white and pale green parts only), halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise
• 3 celery ribs, chopped
• 2 onions, chopped
• 2 carrots, chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, sliced
• 6 fresh parsley stems (without leaves)
• 1 fresh thyme sprig
• 5 coriander seeds
• 1 bay leaf (not California)
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 (750-ml) bottle dry white wine
• 3 1/2 qt cold water
• 5 large egg whites, shells reserved

For topping

• 1/2 cup créme fraîche
• 3 tablespoons water
• 2 oz salmon caviar (roe) or other caviar

• Garnish: fresh dill sprigs

• Special equipment: cheesecloth

Preparation

Make consommé:
1. Rinse salmon carcasses under cold water. Remove any blood spots and discard any gills (they look like the underside of a mushroom cap). Transfer salmon to a 10 to 12-quart pot.

2. Wash leeks well in a bowl of cold water and lift from water to a colander to drain. Add leeks and remaining consommé ingredients, except egg whites and eggshells, to pot with salmon. Bring to a boil, covered. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, skimming any foam, for 40 minutes.

3. Pour stock through a sieve lined with a triple thickness of cheesecloth into a 6-quart saucepan. Boil until reduced to about 9 cups, 15 to 20 minutes, and skim any fat from surface.

4. Whisk egg whites in a large bowl until foamy. Crumble reserved shells into whites and slowly whisk in half of hot stock. Gradually whisk egg white mixture into stock in saucepan and bring to a steady boil over moderate heat, whisking constantly. Boil, undisturbed, until all the whites rise to top and stock is clear (about 10 minutes). Remove from heat and let stand 3 minutes.

5. Pour stock through a cheesecloth-lined sieve into a bowl. Then pour stock through a paper towel–lined sieve into a 3-quart saucepan. (You’ll have about 8 cups.) Reheat and season with salt.

Make topping:
1. Whisk together crème fraîche and water in a small bowl set over a larger bowl of hot water until it reaches room temperature, then continue whisking until smooth and forms soft mounds.

2. Serve consommé with dollops of crème fraîche and salmon caviar.

Until next time…Samantha Bann